[Picture of Andrew Cotton, 34, surfing an 80’ wave off the coast of Portugal in 2014] I’m not naturally someone who is inclined to activities which are risky. I don’t spend incredible amounts of money or energy searching for that jolt of fear and adrenaline that follows a free-climb up a sheer rock…
A gentle ripple breaks the surface That shines like glass under the moon It moves on in concentricity Continually changing shade of blue Upon the far side of the water Stands a mountainside cold and gray Reflecting snow shows amongst the crags And shadows of blue here also lay Frailest wisps of cloud meander through A dark blue sky of…
